Tasting notes, Wines of Northern Spain, 3/30/19

2017 Ostatu Rioja Blanco

Rioja Alavesa, SP

Regular Price $17.99

Sale price $13.99

Crisp, bright and refreshing, this blend of Viura and Malvasia is the perfect aperitivo for any season. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and bottled without further aging to capture its essential freshness.

2018 Marfil Rosat Garnatxa Negra

Alella, SP

Regular Price $14.99

Sale price $11.99

Bold and berry laden, this rosé practically leaps from the glass! Located just 15 km from Barcelona, these vineyards (and the entire appellation, for that matter) will likely be swallowed up by the encroaching suburbs over the next generation and there over 100 year history will be forgotten. But, at the moment, enjoy the exuberance of this fantastic wine!

2017 Pazo Senorans Albariño

Rias Baixas, SP

Regular Price $31.99

Sale price $24.99

Sometimes, Albariño can be crushingly dull. Generally high in acidity, and low in fruit flavors, poorly made Albariño can resemble similarly priced Pinot Grigio. This example, however, due to extended lees aging, is deeply flavored and rich yet still retains the trademark invigorating acidity that makes it such a great food wine.

2017 Daterra Viticultores Portella do Vento

Ribeira Sacra, SP

Regular Price $33.99

Sale price $26.99

The wine geek term for this wine is ‘glou-glou’, which refers to its freshness, versatility, friendliness and indifference to the judgements of the wine police. It’s a wine meant for easy consumption not contemplation. (For the record, Napa Cabs are not glou-glou.) Anyway, this wine, from mostly Mencia is bright, delicious and easy to like. It’s made by the estimable Laura Lorenzo, who is among the fastest (and most deserving) rising stars in the wine world.

2013 Bodegas Bhilar Phincas

Rioja, SP

Regular Price $32.99

Sale price $25.99

This is a unique yet thoroughly correct Rioja. Let me explain…Rioja has a well-deserved reputation for its use of new oak, and permitting wines to age for lengthy periods in both barrel and bottle before release. The great reservas and gran reservas of Rioja must follow those guidelines. Wines that spend less time in barrel (jovan and crianza) are generally less esteemed. This producer (David Sampedro Gil) will, using traditional grapes from old vine sites, opts out of the aging requirements and doesn’t use the requisite terms to describe wine. Rather, he ages to create balance and harmony. Call it a ‘Burgundian’ model.

2016 Mas Martinet Menut

Priorat, SP

Regular Price $24.99

Sale price $19.99

Priorat, despite its old vines and lengthy history, makes thoroughly modern wines. (I should mention that this style is of their history, not adopted because of the viewpoint of misguided wine critics.) The wines are big and bold and ripe and jammy, high in alcohol and (relatively) low in acidity. Where does this place them on the scale of wine experts? No one knows, as most self proclaimed experts are not.