My Favorite Wine (This week anyway), Dec 1, 2021

2020 Fratelli Alessandria Verduno Pelaverga ‘Speziale’

Piedmont, Italy

Regular price: $29.99

Sale Price: $23.99

If, for you, drinking wine is an adventure, I offer my favorite wine (this week, anyway), the 2020 Fratelli Alessandria Verduno Pelaverga ‘Speziale’!

OK, so you’re probably thinking, just what the hell kinda wine is this, I’ve never heard of it, where is it from, what’s it like?

Relax a minute. Take a deep breath. Yes, I know, you’ve never heard of it, that’s exactly the point. Adventure? Remember? Don’t be scared.

To start, let’s break down its name…

Winery: Fratelli Alessandria

Grape: Pelaverga

Place: Verduno (Barolo, Piedmont, Italy)

Wine name: Speziale

Verduno is a sub-region within Barolo, but the wine can’t be called a ‘Barolo’ because it’s made of Pelaverga Picco, not Nebbiolo (all Barolo is of Nebbiolo). The winery itself has been in the hands of the Alessandria family since 1870, but the vineyards have a long history even before that. Likewise, Pelaverga had a long history…but less precise. It was seemingly brought to Piedmont in the 18th century, but no one knows for sure from where. It was largely extinct by the 1970’s but has seen a resurgence since then (but not really, there are only 12 hectares planted in Piedmont and, uh, pretty much none elsewhere). 

The wine then…its light, fresh, and bright with some tannins (its has impressive grip for its weight). Very aromatic, it’s lively and peppery (white peppery!). (The name of the wine ‘Speziale’ means ‘spicy’). It’s GREAT with food, enlivening and supporting whatever is on the plate, holding its own because of naturally high acidity and that bit of tannic grip. Faintly fruity (strawberry?), the wine seems underwhelming at first sip but it really hangs around in your mouth. Fermented in stainless, it is unblemished by cask, and is delightfully clean and devoid of any pretense or subterfuge. As an adventure, it’s more passive than dangerous and I have no idea how many points it would get (maybe 7 or 10, I guess, since it’s lacking all the characteristics of high scoring wines) but instead, offers pure unmitigated pleasure. This wine makes you smile, as any good adventure should. (PW)