2019 Arterberry Maresh
Dundee Hills Chardonnay
$24.99 per Bottle
$239.88 per case ($19.99 per btl)
Every now and then, a wine shows up that surprises us.
American Chardonnay is easily both the most acclaimed and vilified wine in the market. Awash with tropical fruit, touched by sweetly vanilla oak, a creamy and buttery texture, ripe and full, those that like this style, well, really, really like it. One could argue that this expression of Chardonnay is solitary, made only in ‘merica! On the other hand, the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) crowd despises this style, really, really despises it and will harangue those that still (because the ABCers once loved C) drink it. Secretly, many of the ABCers still drink ‘merican Chardonnay, but since its allegedly not trendy anymore, they feel the need to move on.
Anyway. Oregon Chardonnay has been overlooked, because, its been, really, neither fish nor fowl. Not rich and lush enough for those people, and yet, still Chardonnay, ergo, despised by the other camp. Called (wrongly) Burgundian, it has neither the lineage nor the style of those estimable white Burgundies from the Cotes de Beaune, nor the affordability or simple pleasure of Chardonnay from the Maconnaise.
Enter Arterberry Martesh…
Rich and full. almost lush, fermented in oak yet aged in stainless steel, this wine carves out its own path. White Burgundy lovers will respect its balance, subtlety and price tag. ‘Merican Chardonnay drinkers will like it because its similarly delicious to their preference and, well, its price tag. The ABCers would like it, if they gave it a chance, but, you know, its still Chardonnay, so…
No joke, this is one of the most satisfying, well made, affordable Chardonnays we’ve ever worked with. It breaks no new ground, doesn’t turn the wine world on its head, nor change our perspective. Its just delicious and affordable. Well done, Jim Maresh! (PW)