Ok, for the record, I really and truly love rosé. I love the freshness, the brisk acidity, the versatility. Furthermore, I was an early adopter. I was drinking (and selling) rosés 20 years ago, back when people were convinced that all pink (blush!) wines were white zinfandel and that serious wine people didn’t drink THAT STUFF!
So, don’t misunderstand me…this is not the screed of a bigoted, overly-opinionated, under-educated wine snob. It’s just that rosé…my beloved rosé, is in danger of being ghettoized. It’s becoming narrowly defined, slotted really, as a summer wine.
A poolside quaffer. Fresh and fruity. Light and crisp. Beach wine. I fear that rosé is one its way to becoming the next Pinot Grigio. And that really, really pisses me off.
Here’s the thing…rosé is not one wine…any more than red refers to one wine. Rosé refers to coloration, not style, not grape, not flavor, not weight, not place. A rosé can be made from any red grape (or combination of red grapes). It can be light and crisp. It can be lush and rich. It can be pale salmon, brightly orange, dusky crimson and a myriad of hues in between.
There are, of course, summer rosés, as there are summer whites, and summer reds. And many of those summer reds and whites are consumed all year round. But, for some strange reason, people think they must park their rosé after Labor Day.
Listen up, pilgrim! Rosé, since it’s not just one wine, cannot be dismissed so lightly. A big rosé, made from say, Mourvedre (like my favorite wine this week) is structured and tannic and bold. With a touch of red food coloring and a few less degrees at serving, the ‘big-is-better’ drinker is completely fooled. Even a less bold grape, like, say, Cabernet Sauvignon, can make a bold rosé (that is, if the winery hasn’t been cowed by the ‘only in summer’ critic). Rosé of Pinot Noir offer beauty and freshness and light pink hues along with bright berry flavors and real grip. Rosé of Nebbiolo merely a summer wine? Heresy!
So, lay down your judgements and your fears. Drink rosé. Let the criticism wash over you, because the opinions of the less informed are of no value. Drink rosé. Drink rosé in spring and in fall because it’s the perfect transitional wine. Drink rosé in winter because you’ve been waiting for a rich, bold stew to enjoy with that Bandol rosé you put aside a few years back.
Drink rosé.
And in summer?…Vinho Verde