My Favorite wine, Sept. 26, 2018

2015 Domaine Bertagna

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits

‘Les Dames Huguettes’

Burgundy, FR

Regular Price $37.99

Sale Price $29.99

There’s Pinot Noir; and then there’s Burgundy.

Pinot Noir is grown around the globe these days, and some of it is very good. Many of those Pinot Noirs, from California or Oregon or New Zealand, aspire to be considered ‘Burgundian’, but that’s pretty confusing. Do they mean that they are ‘Burgundian’ in style? Or ‘Burgundian’ in quality? It’s pretty clear that the term ‘Burgundian’, when attached to a Pinot Noir from somewhere other than Burgundy, is meant to evoke the ineffable qualities that Pinot Noir from Burgundy seems to possess.

Wine really shouldn’t be that complicated.

This Pinot Noir is from Burgundy.

Ergo, Burgundian.

Also, delicious.

Pinot Noir from warmer growing areas (than Burgundy) has a tendency to be fruity rather than savory. Additionally, those same (warm climate) wines tend to be more viscous and less tannic. This wine, however, has understated dark cherry, earthy and mushroom aromas with tart cherry and herbal flavors. It’s not aggressively ‘full-bodied’ but has substantial tannic grip and a very long finish. It’s not, perhaps, the best wine to sip as a cocktail, but it will sing with food, really, any food, as the weight (medium) and the acidity (abundant) will lift and support any number of flavors.