It’s true…I read the wine press. What I find there is often misleading, mythologizing or just plain wrong. Sometimes, however, I find some useful information, but generally, by the end of the article, I’m shaking my head about something or another. Take, for instance, the recent ‘20 wine for $20’ list in the inestimable ‘New York Times’. Their wine critic, Eric Asimov, is surely a swell fellow, but it’s a rare occasion when he doesn’t let his snobbery run all over the page and lowers himself to speak to the great, unwashed, unlearned consumer. His list showcased some fine choices, but would it be too much to ask as to whether any (or some, if not most) were available outside of NYC? And I thought the ‘Gray Lady’ was now a national publication? What was I thinking?
Anyway, without further ado…here’s our list of the best 20 wines you can buy for $20 (or under). And…(wait for it)…they are all available!
2020 Ostatu Rosado
Rioja Alavesa | Spain | $13.60
Composed of 70% Tempranillo, 27% Garnacha and 3% Viura, sourced from high elevation, old-vine vineyards in Rioja Alavesa, Ostatu Rosado is fermented in stainless steel using only native yeasts. This modern take on Rioja Rosado emphasizes bright fruit and refreshing acidity.The Tempranillo component provides structure and texture while the Garnacha adds plenty of lush, ripe red fruit. A Rose not only for all seasons, but also for an endless array of culinary choices.
2020 Huguet Can Feixes Blanc Seleccio
Penedes | Spain | $14.40
While Penedes is known primarily for the production of sparkling Cava, the cool conditions of the region also allow for terrific, crisp whites as well. Created from primarily Parellada grapes grown at 400 meters elevation, Huguet’s Blanc Seleccio offers subtle floral aromas and mineral notes. Focused and vibrant, this very fresh cuvee relies on its relatively round texture to balance its inherently high acidity.
2020 Torre Beati Pecorino Giocheremo con i Fori
Abruzzo | Italy | $17.60
Pecorino is a varietal found almost exclusively in the central Italian district of Abruzzo and is adored by local growers for its firm acids and full texture. Grower Fausto Albanesi fashions this terrific example from estate fruit which is fermented and aged in stainless steel. Subtle aromas of lanolin and beeswax lead to a green and yellow fruited palate in this hearty white.
2020 Kruger Rumpf Riesling Trocken
Nahe | Germany | $16
The term Trocken in German translates to dry and while we tend to think of dry as a texture, in this context, the word refers to the absence of sweetness present in the wine. Kruger Rumpf is located in the region of Nahe, an area known for stunningly precise, concentrated Riesling. Kruger’s 2020 Trocken is packed with joyous peach and crushed stone characteristics all delivered by a laser beam-like texture.
2020 Jean-Claude Thevenet Macon Pierreclos Blanc
Maconnais | France | $17.60
The Maconpierreclos from JC Thevenet displays the fresh orchard fruit and sunny disposition of Chardonnay in a most unadorned manner. The fruit from several vineyards is fermented in steel and held on its fine lees in order to impart weight and complexity, as oak barrels are not employed for this cuvee. Though streamlined and measured, this energetic, refreshing white possesses many layers of fruit and a generous personality which never grows tired.
2019 Novelty Hill Chardonnay
Columbia Valley | Washington (US) | $18.40
The dry, warm growing conditions of the Columbia Valley afford grape growers in the region to pretty much have their choice when it comes to varietal selection. Chardonnay thrives in these consistent climatic circumstances allowing producers like Novelty Hill to craft well balanced, fruit driven expressions of this popular cultivar. Their 2019 Chardonnay features pleasing aromas and flavors of pineapple and nectarine alongside subtle finishing notes of popcorn. This forward, new world-styled Chardonnay will delight fans of the genre while offering excellent value.
2020 Alary La Grange Daniel Roussanne
Southern Rhone Valley | France | $16
The aromatic, richly textured Roussanne varietal is perhaps the most balanced of the popular white varietals of the Rhone Valley. It is often an important component in the top whites of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, prized for its exotic character. Alary’s 100% Roussanne reveals the multi-layered charm of the varietal – a unique melange of citrus and tropical fruits underpinned by floral and stony notions. Deep and light on its feet, the Grange Daniel partners perfectly with hot and spicy cuisine.
2020 Claude Branger Le Fils de Gras Moutons
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine | France | $13.60
The “children of the fat sheep” (Fils de Gras Moutons) is so-named for the 40 year-old, early maturing Melon de Bourgogne vines from which its fruit is sourced (the later ripening fruit informs Branger’s “Fat Sheep” or Gras Moutons bottling). The sea swept, salty character of the Muscadet appellation loudly announces itself on the nose of this athletic, thirst quenching white. Long undervalued as a category, Muscadet is enjoying a certain renaissance amongst wine consumers, a position that conscientious, quality minded growers such as Branger have played no small role in fostering.
2020 Elena Walch Pinot Grigio
Alto Adige | Italy | $15.20
Pinot Grigio is ubiquitous and sadly, one of the consequences of its popularity is the presence of an ocean of ordinary renditions in the market. While stylistically Elena Walch’s Alto Adige Grigio features all the favorable traits of the variety (moderate acidity, crisp white fruit character, etc.), it possesses an extra dimension of minerality and weight. Fresh and easy going, the wine displays a subtle white peach character, adding interest and depth.
NV Lambert de Seyssel Petit Royale
Savoie | France | $18.40
Vibrant is perhaps the best way to describe this fresh, celebratory bottle of bubbles. Sourced from the foothills of the Alps, this methode traditionelle sparkler is created from a blend of the local Molette (60%) and Altesse (40%) grape varietals. The wine is aged for three years on its fine lees, enriching and sustaining its bright aromatics and soft white fruit flavors. Everything is in its right place here – fine bubbles, clear white fruit and invigorating acid. The Petit Royale is a true gem and required drinking for the sparkling wine enthusiast.
2017 Feudi di San Gregorio ‘Rubrato’, Irpinia, IT $16.80
Made of 100% Aglianico, unmarred by any barrel aging, this rustic and ripe Southern Italian wine is inexpensive enough to be your pizza wine and interesting enough to serve to, well, some snobbish wine writers. The name, Rubrato, is a homage to the color of the wine (ruby) which, of course, tells us nothing about the wine.
2019 Tascante ‘Ghiaia Nera’, Etna, IT $18
This is another wine of a little known grape, Nerello Mascalese. The name of the wine translates to ‘black gravel’, referencing the volcanic soil of Mt. Etna (yes, that Mt. Etna). This is a light and fresh wine that nonetheless has grip and intensity and brings to mind the Kermit Lynch quote about judging wine a wine based upon its weight is like judging a book based upon it length.
2017 Mas de Boislauzon ‘Les Deux Chênes’, Cotes du Rhone Village, Orange, FR $16.80
This wine is a blend of about 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, from vineyards north of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I say ‘about’ because the now 6th generation of the Chaussy family to manage the estate can’t quite understand why precise information regarding the grape blend is meaningful. It’s the wine, oui? Anyway, rich and broad with dark fruit and underlying herbs, its textbook Cotes du Rhone, oui?
2019 Bodegas Bhilar Tinto, Rioja, Elvillar, SP $15.20
There’s a school of thought that suggests that only a handful of wines are ‘natural’ and the rest are manufactured in some factory where the only goal is increased production. This is false, of course, but also ridiculous nonsense. Producers like David Sampedro and Melanie Hickman have been going backwards in time, first ridding their soils of any chemical additives, farming biodynamically and most recently, re-introducing horses in place of tractors in the vineyards. A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Viura, perfectly balanced with lovely berry flavors and crisp finishing acidity, its nature in a bottle.
2018 Churchill’s Estates Red, Douro, PT $16
For the record, if it’s not made in Portugal, it’s not a Port. But Portugal brings more to the table than just Port (just Port? What am I thinking?), producing wines since about 2000 BC. (Port, on the other hand, is about 300 years old. But, I digress). So the modern age of Portuguese wine is in the future, as committed young winemakers are rediscovering their roots and making stunning (not at all sweet) wines from indigineous grapes like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz. This is a full and ripe and juicy and delicious wine that all fans of sun-washed Californian made wines will enjoy. What’s it like? It’s like…really good wine.
2019 Domaine Lafage ‘Cuvée Nicolas’ Côtes Catalanes, Perpignan, FR $15.20
This wine is all about pleasure. No pretense, no soaring prose; one drinks this wine because it really, really tastes good. (Well, that and the alcohol). 100% old vine Grenache from the French side of the Pyrenees, the famille Lafage has been dry farming the steep vineyards for 7 generations. Despite residing (legally) in France, the wine is imbued with the Catalan spirit of alegria!
2019 Château La Mothe du Barry, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux, FR $12
The rub on Bordeaux is that it’s way too expensive. And that’s true, except when it’s not. This wine from the hardest working man in Bordeaux, Joel Duffau, is 100% Merlot (stop it! Miles was a jerk!) fermented and aged in stainless and is fresh and rich and full of very classical Bordeaux flavors and aromas (where Merlot is the largest planted grape varietal). And it’s way cheap.
2015 Colutta Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Friuli Colli Orientali, Manzano, IT $16
Refosco is, of course, another barely known grape. Legend has it coming from ancient Troy and it’s the largest planted indigenous (if it is indeed that) in Friuli Colli Orientali (the eastern hills of Fruili) which is a significant wine region in northeastern Italy. This strain of Refosco (dal Peduncolo Rosso) is named due its red stems, which also adds pigmentation to the wine. It’s kinda like Nebbiolo, with tart cherry, fresh acidity and notable tannins. And like Nebbiolo, it ages well (due to its natural high acidity and tannic structure. Not a voluminous wine, it seeks the company of food, again, like Nebbiolo. Ok, if you like Nebbiolo, you’ll like this wine
2019 Deloach ‘Heritage Reserve’ Pinot Noir, California, Sonoma, CA $10.40
Pinot Noir, being a famously persnickety grape, is difficult to find as an under $20 wine. I really should say, good Pinot Noir is hard to find…so this one is pretty impressive. Deloach has long been a Sonoma standard and although sold to the French house, Boissot, they still make stolid wines. This is a remarkable value, as it actually tastes like Pinot Noir should, bright cherry, solid but not juicy or particularly viscous, it’s a steady performer.
2019 Broadside ‘Margarita Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, Santa Rosa, CA $15.20
Paso Cabernet suffers when compared to Napa but only, perhaps, by reputation. The consumer who tries a mid-priced Paso cab is often wowed by the concentration and freshness and simple like-ability of the wine. This wine is a case in point; ripe, juicy, friendly, inexpensive and (relatively) vintage stable, much like Napa but at a lower price point. Paso leads the way in Tuesday night cabs!